Fresh Mozzarella, a City in the Sky, and Tony's Birthday

Saturday, June 30

Before we all met up for breakfast, Karen and I have a chance to sit with Masimiliano and Igli. She speaks no English, but we manage pretty well. We talk about music, our shared adventures, earthquakes and dogs. They have a sweet Scottish terrier, Iggy (Pop,) that refuses to leave Massi for a minute, and is very protective of the house.

After a quick (haha, nothing happnes quickly in this heat,) breakfast of pasta, bread and mozzarella pizza at the Caffe del Centro, Massi leads us out of town, making a stop at Canile, a mozzarella de bufalo and meats shop. When we order mozzarella balls to go, they pull them right out of the water, and float them in a bag. The cheese is fresh and won't last more than a few hours. They give us small balls for a taste and the flavor is incredible, so juicy. There is a wall of dried pasta in every style, and opposite, a wall of wines. This is a real Italian delicatessen with cured meats, olives, a variety of pickled vegetables, sauces and jams. They also make their own bread in a wood fire oven. The smells are wonderful.

Back on the highway, we are headed to Pisticci. South of Caserta and Napoli, the land is flat but punctuated with craggy and severe mountains that rise straight up. There is a road closure on the A3, and we ignore "Jane" and make a wrong turn, and find ourselves taking the scenic route (SS598) through the countryside. The mountains get smaller and look to be made of sand. You don't see marble cuts, just weather erosion, the expanse looks like parts the American southwest. The colors lose all saturation, and while it's still hot, the air dries out.

 

Pisticci looks like a medieval city on top of 1000 ft. mountain. We pull into the central square as the chuch bells are ringing for matins at 5:45. Daniele, owner of the Circus club greets us and asks if we want iced coffee, which tastes like sweet instant coffee poured over finely crushed ice. There's a one way road that circles the hilltop town, so most of us walk to the club, enjoying an incredible panoramic view of the plains that we just drove across. This is a reason why I love to tour– Pisticci is a town that is fantastically charming, has zero tourist traffic, and is difficult to get to. But, here we are!

Since Pisticci isn't listed in our tour book, here's a few facts. The view from the castle at sunset is incredible. The town was originally settled as a Greek outpost 3000 years ago. The smell of mint is ever present. The main street is less than 1/4 mile long, and that's pretty much it. Swedish people have summer homes here.

 

We load in and do a sound check, the usual. Daniele shows us to our bed and breakfast which has recently been updated, although some of the guys have to sleep in the attic. As I lie down for a few minutes before dinner, bats come out for their dusk insect run, skreeching past the window over and over. A religous marching band parades through the town, which looks like a Mediterranean island village with white washed walls, widows in black, and meandering cobblestone passageways.

The Circus provided dinner for us, a delightful change from flour based foods, they grilled linguisa sausage and grilled peppers, onions, zucchini, eggplant and mushrooms. We were starving and the platters disappeared quickly. Before the show, Karen and I walked up the street to the town center, and bought some things at the night market. Even at 11 at night, there are still children running around, playing games and splashing in the fountain.

It was another hot night and the club's patrons were hesitant to come inside the Circus. Frankie, the TMen play to a mostly empty room. As always, there are the hardcore fans who stay for the whole show, but mostly stick their heads in for a few songs, then retreat outside for smoking and conversation. Meshugga generates a bit of interest, but by 2am, tiny Pisicci is going to sleep.

 

Now it's time to celebrate Tony's birthday. Steve and Danny had purchased a plate of sweets, and we sing "Happy Birthday" under the Pisticci stars. The grill is still going, so Danny and I est on aausage sandwiches. It's a beautiful night. At 3am, most of us head back to the penzione. We need showers, but there's no hot water. I am stinky and soaked, so I suck it up and cool off.

Putting the plug for the hot water heater inside the shower stall is a bad idea.

Meanwhile, Danny and Tony stay up to make the most of his day. Danny makes an interesting friend with a guy named Mario, who offers to sell Danny a house, and start a business with him. Tony is hanging out with Luigi, the DJ. Hmmm.... Mario and Luigi, are they plumbers by any chance?